While Libeskind's recent addition to the Royal Ontario Museum, the Michael Lee-Chin Crystal (2007), follows the shock and awe spirit of Will Alsop's earlier creation - the new building looks like a giant meteor that landed atop the museum's older building - and Gehry's spectacular remake of Art Gallery of Toronto with its block-long, show-stopping, glass enclosed sculpture promenade and 110 new gallery spaces, promises to do the same when it opens this November, it is the city's one-of a-kind museums, its Queen Street West art galleries and the Historic Distillery District, Toronto's most awesome arts and entertainment complex that gives the city its inner glow. Adding color to confection are numerous "well hidden" artistic wonders scattered throughout the city. Topping this list of best kept secrets is Derek Besant's, 15 stories high Waterfal mural (1989) which graces the lobby of the Scotia Bank Plaza. Standing before the 62 canvases that form the vertiginous 100 foot plus high mural, one actually senses the rushing waters as they cascade down the side of the wall. Just as exciting, and just as well hidden, unless you just happen to be there, is Santiago Calatrava's, spectacularly arched, 5 stories high, steel and glass cathedral-like canopy at the Allen Lambert Galleria. Referred to as the Hall of Lights it covers the shops, restaurants, office towers and Heritage buildings of Brookfield Place, while linking Bay Street to Heritage Square.

View of Scotia Plaza Atrium showing Derek Besant’s mural (1989). Photo Credit: Courtesy of Scotiabank Group Archives Copyright 2008.

Visiting Toronto's specialty museums, all within walking distance from center city, is a great way to spend a day. I began at the Bata Shoe Museum, a shoebox-shaped building with a lid topped roof that houses the world's largest collection of shoes and foot-wear related objects. Buried among the hundreds of pairs of shoes on view, some dating back 4500 years, are Picasso's pony-skin ankle boots, Napoleon's socks and Elvis Presley's blue patent loafers. Next, I walked to the recently expanded, glass-fronted, Gardiner Museum, Canada's only museum devoted solely to ceramics. Along with having the largest collection of early American ceramics on display in Canada, a plethora of 16th century Italian majolica, 17th and 19th century English pottery and English porcelain, the museum mounts three contemporary art exhibitions each year. The work of German sculptor, Gertraud MÖhwald (1929-2002) - 22 beautifully crafted torsos and heads composed of clay, fired ceramics, porcelain shards, all influenced by her survival of the firebombing of Dresden, was on view the day that I visited. Down at the Harbourfront Centre is the Museum of Inuit Art, Canada's only museum dedicated to the art and culture of the indigenous Inuit peoples. Though the primary focus of the museum is sculpture carved from stone, antler, ivory and bone, prints, drawings and wall hangings are also on display. All three museum's have gift shops that sell original works of art.

After a day of walking you might want to spend the next day or two, especially if you are tight on time, crisscrossing the city in a taxi. One of the city's premier contemporary art galleries is The Power Plant. Like London's Tate Modern, the gallery's three beautifully renovated exhibition spaces occupy an old industrial building complete with a tall smokestack. Currently at the gallery, through May 11, is Chicago based artist Sadie Benning's Play Pause (2006), a two-screen video installation that tracks her hand drawn animated figures, men and women, as they navigate their city in search of everyday play and pleasure. Nine major works (2002-07) which cleverly address the interrelationship of environment, politics, culture and art history by the 2005 Turner Prize winning British, artist Simon Sterling will also be on view.

For contemporary art lovers and collectors, I suggest zipping over to Queen Street West, Toronto's art and design district to take in the many small contemporary galleries that dot the street. Be sure to check out the Stephen Bulger Gallery, which is celebrating its 14th year and specializes in photographs by historical and contemporary Canadian and international artists. From May 3 to June 7, it is showing Don't Mess with the Pediment twelve works of Ottawa-based photographer Jeff Thomas, who is part Iroquois and part Onondaga. His photographs document contemporary life from the perspective of an urban Iroquoian. In this exhibition the Thomas presents images of Indians as they appear embedded in the facades of the Canada's public buildings. While in the neighborhood you might want to pop into the hot and happening Drake Hotel, for lunch, dinner or drinks and to see what Mia Nielsen, the hotel's popular in-house curator is doing. Besides regularly mounting contemporary art exhibitions "My focus is on international artists," Mia says the hotel's lobby, lounge, restaurants and rooms are filled with contemporary art. "During the month of May the Drake will be part of Contact, the world's largest photography festival. We will be projecting photos on the front of the hotel and featuring a book launch by Magnum photographer Larry Towell."

Toronto's downtown Historic Distillery District, supremely conducive to strolling, is a wonderful way to end your Toronto visit on a leisurely note. Situated on 14 acres of what was once the largest distillery in the British Empire, this pedestrian only village, with its quaint, brick-lined streets and forty-five well preserved Victorian industrial buildings, is seriously devoted to promoting art and culture. With 17 art galleries, 10 combination galleries/artist studios and 30 working studios (some open to the public) restaurants, countless jewelry, ceramic and furniture boutiques, and a performing arts center, there is no end of things to do. The highlight of any visit to the Distillery is sure to be the renowned Sandra Ainsley Gallery, arguably the most beautiful art glass gallery in the world. Each work of art, breathtakingly spotlighted, is to die for. Besides exhibiting one-of-a-kind artworks by Canadian, as well as international artists - Dale Chihuly, the world's most famous artist working in glass, was recently featured-the cavernous gallery also custom-makes glass objects incorporating company logos for corporate clients.

After visiting the galleries and talking with the artists, even perhaps buying a painting, you might want to rest your weary legs and tend to your palate. The Pure Spirits Oyster House and Grill, one of six Distillery restaurants, was my lunch choice du jour. The food is wonderful, and the ambience, with its exposed ceiling and factory steel light fixtures hanging over the stainless steel chairs and dark ebony booths, keeping with the pioneering spirit of the historic building, was mood-setting perfect. If you just want a quick pick me up, a velveteen cup of hot or cold chocolate, a truffle, or a chocolate bar to send you on your way, Soma, the only chocolatier in Toronto to make chocolate straight from the beans, is a few doors down from Pure Spirits. What better way to wind down before hopping a plane back home.

Edward Rubin is a New York City based writer and photographer. A long time contributor to Manhattan Arts International, his writings have appeared in such publications as Art & Antiques, ArtUS, Sculpture Magazine, NYArts and Contemporary Magazine. 
Erubin5000@aol.com

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